Three-star chef Niederkofler now works his magic at Atelier Moessmer on Kronplatz

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Which skier or snowboarder doesn't know it, the most popular ski mountain in South Tyrol? The Kronplatz may seem inconspicuous. Like a giant bundt cake. And yes, I have to admit, it's not my favorite either. Nevertheless, it's worth making a detour to Kronplatz - the mountain has its qualities and for the gourmets among winter sports enthusiasts, it's always worth a trip anyway. As of late, South Tyrol's star chef Norbert Niederkofler has been serving up dishes at the foot of Kronplatz.

Old class, new domicile, fresh impetus - South Tyrol's star chef Norbert Niederkofler has made a magnificent comeback in Bruneck. Because his restaurant St. Hubertus in San Cassiano was closed due to the conversion of the Rosa Alpina Hotel into an Aman Resort, the only three-star chef in South Tyrol has moved to Brunico. His new domicile is an imposing villa owned by the cloth manufacturer Moessmer directly on the Rienz.

High ceilings, large windows, fine fabrics and a straightforward design form the backdrop in which the highly professional and warm service provided by the restaurant manager and head sommelier Lukas Gerges creates a real feel-good atmosphere. "That's why I became a chef: People talk to each other, look, enjoy, experience," says Norbert Niederkofler.

For the amuse bouche, his guests are led into the aperitif and dessert room, where they enjoy the first delicacies casually in armchairs. They then move on to one of the lounges or the "Chef's Table" in the glass cube extension of the villa. There you can follow every move of the chefs. "We have deliberately created sufficient distance between the chefs' workstations and the guests' seats so that they can talk in peace and enjoy their privacy," explains Niederkofler. However, the number one topic of conversation at Atelier Moessmer will be Niederkofler's creations, which are prepared strictly according to his "Cook the Mountain" philosophy using only ingredients from the region. Not even olive oil or citrus fruits make it onto the plate.

Niederkofler's renunciation is a win for the environment and an exciting journey to the diversity of flavors in South Tyrol for the guest. The salad with more than 20 types of lettuce and herbs from the mountain pastures is a feast for the eyes alone. The cold-smoked trout melts in the mouth. The risotto with dried nettle pesto, watercress and creamy, spicy Robiola cheese is also superb, as is Niederkofler's immortal classic: beet gnocchi. These have as much to do with conventional gnocchi as singing in the shower has to do with an opera aria by the immortal Luciano Pavarotti. Niederkofler coats the potato mixture, in which a frozen horseradish praline is hidden, with a beet reduction and serves it with a daikon and radish cream on flavored beet juice and a beer base consisting of shake bread, edible charcoal and beer. If you let one of these gnocchi melt in your mouth with the cream and the beer base, you will experience an explosion of flavors with earthy, spicy, sweet, salty, sour and slightly bitter notes.

He leaves the marinated char to dry for at least 24 hours so that it can develop its intense aroma when seared on the charcoal grill. Niederkofler serves the juicy veal fillet on a jus that Japanese chefs would celebrate as an example of umami. If you're on vacation in South Tyrol and don't treat yourself to a meal at Niederkofler, it's your own fault.